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Our Kenya Journal
Before we start we would like to express our heartfelt gratitude to all the contacts across Kenya and around the world who are supporting and guiding us on this meaningful journey across the country and its layers. Your insights and knowledge are invaluable as we navigate through Kenya.
About
As a family of six, our journey reflects a commitment to understanding the intricate relationships between nature, culture, and conservation around the world. Each destination we explore reveals powerful narratives of coexistence and conflict that shape the identity of its people and landscapes.
We are honored to experience ancient traditions that honor the earth, while also learning about contemporary efforts to safeguard our planet. This dynamic engagement helps us appreciate the balance that must be maintained between development and preservation. We Journal as a family in an effort to capture the lessons and revisit them in the future.
Throughout our travels, we closely observe how cultural heritage and environmental stewardship interact, sometimes harmoniously and at other times in tension. By immersing ourselves in diverse communities, we gain insights into their unique challenges and triumphs.
Together, we are navigating this complex terrain, uncovering the lessons that each place offers about resilience, adaptation, and the shared responsibility we all hold in caring for our planet. Thank you for joining us on this enlightening journey.
Let’s unpack Kenya!
Let’s Start Off With The Highlands
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It turns out Africa is braking apart, literally!
We started off in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site, spans 6,000 kilometers, dividing the continent. It’s a geological wonder, marked by escarpments, lakes, and volcanic features that shape the landscape and support diverse ecosystems.
The Great Rift Valley in Kenya is a remarkable geological feature resulting from the ongoing process of tectonic plate separation. The East African Rift System, of which the Great Rift Valley is a part, is shaped by the divergent movement of the African Plate and the Somali Plate. This separation, occurring at a rate of a few millimeters per year, leads to significant geological activity and the formation of unique landforms.
As the tectonic plates pull apart, the Earth's crust thins and fractures, creating deep valleys and dramatic landscapes. This process has given rise to numerous geological phenomena, including large lakes, volcanic activity, and rich biodiversity. The Great Rift Valley itself is characterized by majestic escarpments and a diverse range of ecosystems, fostering a variety of wildlife and plant species.
In addition to its geological significance, the Great Rift Valley holds cultural and historical importance, with archaeological sites that provide insights into early human evolution. Overall, the separation of Africa’s tectonic plates is a continuous and transformative process that shapes not only the physical landscape but also the ecological and anthropological narratives of the region.
Hells Gate National Park
The creation of lakes, rivers and wetlands in the Rift Valley has established a distinctive corridor of life, providing habitats for plants and animals alike.
But Water Here is a Huge Deal.
Across these landscapes access to clean water still dictates the daily lives of millions.
Kenya’s major rivers, including the Tana and Athi, sustain agriculture and communities. However, water scarcity and floods affects 41% of the population, with rivers under pressure from deforestation, pollution, and climate change.
Places like Lake Victoria, the biggest lake in Africa, spanning Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania, and is vital for the environment and the economy. The rivers help maintain the lake’s water levels and provide resources for local communities and wildlife.
However, these areas face significant challenges, including droughts and floods. Droughts can reduce water flow in the rivers, impacting both people and wildlife. On the other hand, floods can cause damage to communities and ecosystems, making it difficult for the local populations to thrive.
“In Kenya women are the first victims of environmental degradation, because they are the ones who walk for hours looking for water, who fetch firewood, who provide food for their families.”
Main Rivers & Lakes of Kenya
Tana River
Kenya’s longest river, stretching 1,014 km, it supports agriculture and hydroelectric power, while flowing from the Aberdare Mountains to the Indian Ocean.
Lake Victoria
The world’s second-largest freshwater lake, it supports fishing and agriculture while providing livelihoods for millions in western Kenya.
Athi River
A vital water source for Nairobi, it travels 390 km before merging with the Galana River and flowing into the Indian Ocean.
Lake Nakuru
Famous for its vibrant flocks of flamingos, this soda lake in the Rift Valley is part of a national park and a haven for wildlife.
Ewaso Ng'iro River
Known for sustaining arid and semi-arid regions, it provides water for wildlife and communities in northern Kenya.
Lake Turkana
The world’s largest desert lake, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, rich in biodiversity and critical to local fishing communities.
And Yet These Were the Perfect Conditions for Human Evolution to Happen.
Kenya “The Cradle of Humanity"
Here The Theory of Evolution, Christian Genesis & Other Believes Come Together.
It has struck us how evident In Kenya, beliefs about the origin of humanity reflect a rich mosaic of scientific, religious, and indigenous perspectives. The war of narratives is very evident in a daily basis.
The theory of evolution, supported by significant fossil discoveries such as Orrorin tugenensis and Homo erectus, highlights the biological development of humans over millions of years. In contrast, approximately 85.5% of Kenyans identify as Christian, influenced by missionaries in the 19th century who introduced the Genesis creation narrative, which many interpret alongside local customs. Indigenous worldviews further enrich this discourse; for example, the Kikuyu people believe in Ngai (God) residing on Mount Kenya and emphasize a spiritual connection with ancestors. This blend of evolutionary science, biblical teachings, and indigenous spirituality illustrates the diverse beliefs surrounding humanity's origins in Kenya.
Nakuru the Origine of Humanity
Kenya is often called the "Cradle of Humanity" due to its rich fossil record that has helped trace the origins of early humans. Key archaeological sites like the Turkana Basin have yielded remarkable discoveries, including Australopithecus anamensis and Homo habilis, some of the earliest known ancestors of modern humans. Fossils dating back over 4 million years have been found in Kenya, providing evidence of early human life and evolution. These findings highlight Kenya’s central role in understanding human origins and evolution.
Is Kenya all Masai?
Not at all. Kenya alone is home to a rich and vibrant tapestry of over 40 distinct tribes, including prominent ones such as the Maasai, Kikuyu, and Luo, each possessing their own unique traditions, languages, and customs that contribute to the country's diverse cultural landscape. Despite the growing pressures of modernization and globalization that threaten these age-old practices, traditional cultural expressions—such as the Maasai’s time-honored tradition of cattle herding—continue to play an integral role in preserving their identity and fostering a profound sense of community life among the people. These customs not only highlight the rich heritage of these tribes but also strengthen bonds among community members as they navigate the complexities of a rapidly changing world.
Kenya alone is home to over 40 tribes, including the Maasai, Kikuyu, and Luo, each with unique traditions and languages.
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Kikuyu
The largest ethnic group in Kenya, known for agriculture and entrepreneurship, primarily residing in the central highlands.
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Luo
A Nilotic community based around Lake Victoria, renowned for fishing and rich cultural traditions.
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Luhya
Western Kenya's second-largest group, celebrated for farming and a strong sense of community.
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Massai
Famous semi-nomadic pastoralists with vibrant traditions, mainly found in the Rift Valley and southern Kenya.
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Kalenjin
A highland group often associated with Kenya’s world-renowned long-distance runners.
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Swahili
The Swahili people, primarily found along Kenya’s coastal region, are a blend of African and Arab heritage, shaped by centuries of trade across the Indian Ocean.
Then how does landownership work in Kenya?
Well… we are still understanding as the answer in complex and deeply rooted in colonial times and tribal disputes. Land ownership has traditionally been central to identity and power, but colonial rule disrupted this balance. The British appropriated vast tracts of fertile land, displacing indigenous communities and creating a system of settler farming that concentrated wealth in the hands of a few.
Post-independence, efforts to redistribute land have been mired in corruption, leaving many Kenyans—especially marginalized groups—landless. Today, historical grievances over land ownership persist, creating tension between tribes and regions. Wealth disparities remain evident, with elites controlling much of the land and resources, while many rural communities struggle for access to arable land. This dynamic underscores the need for equitable land reforms and policies that honor Kenya’s cultural diversity and shared national identity.
Jomo Kenyatta, the first President of Kenya
“When the missionaries arrived, the Africans had the land and the missionaries had the Bible. They taught us how to pray with our eyes closed. When we opened them, they had the land, and we had the Bible.”
Things That Have Struck
us so far:
The UK Military Presence
The UK has a military presence in Kenya through the British Army Training Unit Kenya (BATUK), where British soldiers work alongside the Kenyan Defence Forces in training exercises. While the partnership has benefits, it has faced some challenges, including environmental concerns. In 2021, a training exercise led to a fire that destroyed thousands of acres of land in the Lolldaiga Hills. Additionally, there is an unresolved case from 2012 involving the tragic death of Agnes Wanjiru, allegedly at the hands of a British soldier.
These issues have made it difficult for the Kenyan Parliament to agree on renewing the Defense Cooperation Agreement between Kenya and the UK. Lawmakers are calling for justice and accountability before moving forward with the agreement.
2. The Omnipresent Amount of Missions, Churches, Ministries of Faith and Preachers.
Kenya has a significant missionary presence, with many organizations and individuals involved in ministry. Since the 19th century, Christianity has flourished, with 85.5% of the population identifying as Christian per the 2019 census. This includes various denominations like Protestant, Catholic, and Evangelical churches.
Missionaries have a strong presence in urban areas, such as Nairobi, where they meet spiritual and social needs through education, healthcare, and community development. For example, the Missionaries of the Poor offer vital services for vulnerable populations, including child daycare and support for disabled individuals.
Despite challenges like urban poverty and the blending of traditional beliefs with Christianity, missionaries are essential in shaping religious life in Kenya. Their work not only promotes the gospel but also empowers local communities through training and resources, creating a vibrant space for faith-based engagement throughout the nation.
3. The Number of People Walking by the Road at all Time
According to the UN in Kenya non-motorized transport (NMT) is the most widely used mode of transport. In Nairobi, 45% of people walk for their daily trips and many others use NMT to reach public transport. Despite being the dominant mode of transport, it is generally the least considered in urban planning and investments. The Integrated National Transport Policy (2012) recognises the importance of NMT in addressing the needs of the poor as well as promoting the health of the population. Some counties, like Nairobi, Kiambu and Kisumu are taking the lead in the provision of NMT facilities but there is still a lot of work to be done in Kenya to address the needs of people that walk and cycle.
4. The Battle for Equitable Land Access & Climate Justice
There’s an ongoing tension amongst communities, wildlife and disputed vital resources.
The much needed emergence of private reserves and conservancies has significantly contributed to the survival of numerous species and the integrity of entire ecosystems that are vital for the planet’s wellbeing. However, this development is not without its challenges and controversies. Electric fences intended to keep animals away from agricultural land and protect them from poachers have also restricted the movement of semi-nomadic pastoralists, who have roamed their livestock freely for millennia. These pastoralists now find themselves confined outside these fences, where resources are scarce at times. Specially during times of drought, the greener pastures on the other side of the fences escalate tensions as access to essential resources becomes increasingly limited. While not all, many of the conservancies are transitioning to integral governance models where indigenous and local stakeholders work hand in hand in the equitable management of the land.
Wangari Maathai
“In a few decades, the relationship between the environment, resources and conflict may seem almost as obvious as the connection we see today between human rights, democracy and peace.”
5. The Wildlife Trafficking
The illegal wildlife trade is a multi-billion-dollar industry that threatens global biodiversity, driving species like elephants, rhinos, and pangolins toward extinction.
Though enforcement yet has a long way to go, there are significant efforts to raise awareness and conservancies do their part of keeping the animals safe.
We’ve been in touch with Karl Ammann, an award-winning wildlife photographer and conservationist, has dedicated decades to exposing the dark networks behind this trade. Through investigative journalism and documentaries, Ammann reveals the exploitation of endangered species and the corruption fueling it, inspiring global action to protect wildlife and dismantle illegal markets. His work is a powerful call to preserve the planet's most vulnerable species.
6. The Poaching
In 2016, 105 tonnes of ivory and 1.3 tonnes of rhino horns, nearly all of Kenya's elephant ivory and rhino horn stockpiles, were burned. “We simply cannot afford to allow poaching to go on for one more day,” Mr. Thiaw said. “It does not make moral, economic or political sense.”
Accrording to the Tsavo Trust, Kenya’s stance on poaching and elephant conservation has been consistently no-nonsense. Since 1989, this country has succeeded where most others have faltered. Though new challenges are posed daily to wildlife conservationists, and despite that the elephant populations in this country might never reach pre-1970 levels, the fact that poaching is on the decrease here is incredibly good news.
And this follows a general trend downward. In 2018, 80 elephant were poached, and in 2019 that number was 34.
This is incredibly heart-warming for those of us involved in elephant conservation and, despite that this is only one battleground on which we fight to conserve this iconic species, we are incredibly proud that, in this, the tide seems to be turning.
7. The Access to Financial Services
2023 results showed that 54% considered lack of access to capital as the biggest barrier to growth. For another 45%, access to grant-funding is the largest impediment.
But Kenya has come up with an amazing solution to close the financial access gap. M-Pesa.
To address financial inequity, Kenya has been investing in digital financial services. The success of mobile banking platforms, particularly M-Pesa, has revolutionized the way Kenyans access financial services. By providing affordable and accessible banking options, these platforms have empowered small-scale entrepreneurs and rural communities, thereby reducing the financial gap. Initiatives aimed at enhancing financial literacy are also underway, equipping individuals with skills to manage their finances effectively.
7. The Loss of Wildlife Habitat
Kenya's population has grown from 2.9 million in 1928 to over 49 million today, and is projected to reach 65 million by 2030. This population growth has led to wildlife losing space to people, buildings, roads, and agriculture.
Kenya's wildlife and populations are in close proximity due to a number of factors.
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THIS JOURNAL IS STILL IN PROGRESS.
Come back soon for an updated version.
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